Discussion:
Topband: Make 80m vertical work on 160
Franki ON5ZO
2009-10-04 18:28:32 UTC
Permalink
Gentlemen, please your advice.

If I were to convert my working resonant 80m vertical into a 80/160m
antenna, I assume I have two basic options according to the literature:

- Use a trap to 'split' the antenna on 80m (resonant at geometric mean of
160/80m frequencies), or
- Use a loading coil that can be switched in/out of the vertical to lengthen
it electrically.

I was leaning towards the coil for simplicity of construction, yet it needs
to be at the feedpoint for practical reasons, as it seeds a switching
circuit with control cable.

Does the trap have advantages over the coil, apart from not needing a relay?
Where do I start for practical dimensions to obtain a calculated L value for
the loading coil?

Then I stumbled across the linear loading solution in ON4UN's book. I could
go up and down once with the verttical wire before going up all the way, and
switch the loading part in or out for 160/80.
But I didn't really see a practical approach for the wire spacing. How far
would the loading wires need to be away from each other and the main
vertical wire. Would 30cm (12") be enough?

Your practical input would be appreciated.
73 de Franki ON5ZO
Dan Zimmerman N3OX
2009-10-04 23:24:51 UTC
Permalink
Post by Franki ON5ZO
I was leaning towards the coil for simplicity of construction, yet it needs
to be at the feedpoint for practical reasons, as it seeds a switching
circuit with control cable.
I use a coil to load my 80m vertical on a fiberglass pole to resonance on
160m. I recently built a computer controlled switch to handle the switching
for me:

http://n3ox.net/projects/stepperswitch/

If you look at the rest of my website you can find older simpler versions,
and also details on my base loading coil.
Post by Franki ON5ZO
Does the trap have advantages over the coil, apart from not needing a relay?
Where do I start for practical dimensions to obtain a calculated L value for
the loading coil?
The trap needs to be pretty special if you want to use a 1/4 wave 80m
vertical on both bands. You need a circuit that provides a lot of loading
on 160 and not much on 80 but doesn't block all current... I don't know how
easy that would be to pull off without switching plus shunt capacitance is
bad news for good loading coils.

With switching it would be pretty easy, just short out the coil when you
want to use 80m.

The advantage of having a coil higher up on the vertical is clear: the
higher up the loading coil is, the higher the radiation resistance. Now,
the coil has to be much larger if it's halfway or 2/3 of the way up the
vertical, and on a tapered vertical it might have to be MORE reactance with
smaller wire (for weight and windload) so you have an interactive design
problem.

The best way to determine what you want to do, in my opinion, in any of
these situations is to model the antenna in EZNEC or other modeling software
with a realistic coil Q and see how things work out. You can build a giant
copper tubing coil at the base in a way that you can't up high. Trying to
build some dual band loading network will compromise on the lower band, for
sure, but maybe it doesn't matter. You should also try to estimate your
ground losses compared to practical loading schemes.
Post by Franki ON5ZO
Then I stumbled across the linear loading solution in ON4UN's book. I could
go up and down once with the verttical wire before going up all the way, and
switch the loading part in or out for 160/80.
I like how W8JI puts it, from his website:

"Linear Loading is really nothing other than a poor form-factor inductor"

I like coils. I think hams have been fed a load of nonsense from antenna
marketing departments that claim that their design has "no lossy coils."
Coils have loss, it's true, but so does EVERY loading scheme, even if it
just looks like "some wires." The loss of the wire in a linear loaded
antenna is NOT the same as the loss in the same wire stretched out straight!
The loading scheme still has to store and supply a large amount of energy,
and high currents result. Much higher currents than those in a dipole or
something.

People find it conceptually attractive, but I think they often have the
wrong concept in mind when they choose linear loading. Linear loading is
the use of an inductive transmission line stub to load the antenna. It's
difficult to see the stubs sometimes, because each linear loading wire in
between the outer extremes does double duty as one side of two different
transmission lines.

For very SHORT short circuited transmission line stubs, losses aren't so
bad. But once you need a few hundred ohms of reactance it becomes a rather
poor idea. If you need thousands of ohms of reactance it becomes really
terrible.

My wire vertical requires about 640 ohms of reactance to base load it. A
good coil probably has realistic Q in the 300-500 range (from what I gather,
to get 500 you need a pretty special coil, some good info here:
http://www.qsl.net/ve6wz/CC_coil.html )

I can use VK1OD's two wire transmission line calculator to calculate the
input impedance of a shorted stub of practical design...

http://vk1od.net/calc/tl/twllc.htm

let's say 2mm wire spaced 30mm. Approximately 25m of this line shorted at
one end with a 0.000000001 ohm load has an input impedance of 6+j646. This
is indeed a loading inductor of about the right size... but the Q of this
inductive stub is about Q = 108 (646/6)!

I'm convinced you will always do better with a coil.

Some people think the stub radiates, but it can't do that. Unless you put
VERY large spacing, you'll find that the radiation from the currents in the
three wires are just like the radiation from the single vertical, because
the currents in the linear loading setup have phases opposite each other.
You'd have to build a loop, not something that looks anything like a
vertical or "folded" vertical to get any radiation to speak of from the
various wires.

Even with 30cm spacing, they're still transmission line stubs. Wider
spacing is generally better because you need less length of stub to get a
given reactance. Of course, the limiting case is SQUARE... in which case
you just built a large single turn square inductor!

Now, whether or not you need to *worry* about loading system Q really
depends on your ground system. If you've got a total of 1.5 ohms loss
resistance normalized to your feedpoint with whatever loading method you
use, and you're like me and have something like 12 ohm ground resistance for
your radial system on 160m, then there's not much point trying to make the
ultimate Q inductive load.

But in my opinion, once you are able to calculate a coil's physical form
from the reactance you need (lately I've been using
http://hamwaves.com/antennas/inductance.html, I've also used a program
called SOLNOID3 by the late G4FGQ) , they are the simplest and best method
for inductive loading. Linear loading is MORE complicated and MORE lossy.
So the only real advantage is .... what?

Besides, I think coils are beautiful and very "ham radio looking",
especially my refurbished one for 160m:

Loading Image...

Now, regarding top loading vs. base loading, there is good reason to
increase radiation resistance, but in my case since I have one slim
Spiderbeam pole, no trees and my vertical is used on 30, 40, 80 and 160, I
decided to do the simplest thing mechanically and live with base loading. I
estimate I could do about 1dB better with an inverted L but it would require
all kinds of changes that would be adverse for the other bands.

It's important to understand, though, that linear loading probably
***doesn't change the radiation resistance*** vs. base loading if you can
switch it in and out at the feedpoint! This is possibly the worst issue
with linear loading.. it makes it very hard to visualize where the
"inductor" is connected in to the overall system. If you drew a picture
of what you planned to do, I think I could could draw on that picture where
your equivalent loading inductor would go but it's pretty hopeless to do
that in words.

I'd use a coil. If you are only building an 80m/160m vertical, a coil some
distance up the mast would be good if you can handle that mechanically.
N6RK has reported good results using large open frame relays to switch in
and out sections of verticals. I would expect the same to be true for the
loading inductor high in the vertical. If you use a trap, you'll probably
get the best results if you put that right at the top of your vertical and
run a wire off somewhere to make it into a 160m inverted L and 80m vertical.
That would be a really good antenna and would have wider SWR bandwidth
than most other options.

73
Dan
DAVID CUTHBERT
2009-10-05 00:45:47 UTC
Permalink
Franki,

your 80 meter resonant vertical I assume is about 20 meters tall. You might
want to consider top loading. That allows for two band operation with not
active switching circuits. For example, thee 7 meter top hat wires sloping
downward and loaded with 35 uH provides two band operation.

A base loading coil of 33 uH will get you on 160 meters. A relay can be used
to short it when operating 80 meters. The relay needs to be a high voltage
type if you're running a kW as the voltage across it is over 2500 volts.

Linear loading does not offer an electrical advantage over a simple solenoid
inductor. The 33 uH base loading coil will have a Q of 300 when made with
close wound wire on a 2" PVC form. That gives a loss resistance of 2.4 ohms.
For the simple coil described A KW is a bit much. It will dissipate 45 watts
key down. For this an air wound coil would be better (it can run much
hotter).

Dave WX7G
Post by Franki ON5ZO
Gentlemen, please your advice.
If I were to convert my working resonant 80m vertical into a 80/160m
- Use a trap to 'split' the antenna on 80m (resonant at geometric mean of
160/80m frequencies), or
- Use a loading coil that can be switched in/out of the vertical to lengthen
it electrically.
I was leaning towards the coil for simplicity of construction, yet it needs
to be at the feedpoint for practical reasons, as it seeds a switching
circuit with control cable.
Does the trap have advantages over the coil, apart from not needing a relay?
Where do I start for practical dimensions to obtain a calculated L value for
the loading coil?
Then I stumbled across the linear loading solution in ON4UN's book. I could
go up and down once with the verttical wire before going up all the way, and
switch the loading part in or out for 160/80.
But I didn't really see a practical approach for the wire spacing. How far
would the loading wires need to be away from each other and the main
vertical wire. Would 30cm (12") be enough?
Your practical input would be appreciated.
73 de Franki ON5ZO
_______________________________________________
Topband mailing list
Topband at contesting.com
http://lists.contesting.com/mailman/listinfo/topband
GEORGE WALLNER
2009-10-05 14:56:58 UTC
Permalink
On Sun, 4 Oct 2009 20:28:32 +0200
Post by Franki ON5ZO
Gentlemen, please your advice.
If I were to convert my working resonant 80m vertical
into a 80/160m
antenna, I assume I have two basic options according to
- Use a trap to 'split' the antenna on 80m (resonant at
geometric mean of
160/80m frequencies), or
- Use a loading coil that can be switched in/out
...linear loading solution in
ON4UN's book. >
Franki,

I have tried the linear loading described in ON4UN book.
It was not better than a high Q base mounted loading coil.
(I guess the Q of the linear loading element is not that
high.) On the other hand, I have a very good ground system
here, so that may have masked the difference. Perhaps if
the ground system was lossier, linear loading would have
an advantage.

GL es 73,

George
AA7JV
Guy Olinger K2AV
2009-10-06 16:40:05 UTC
Permalink
Post by Franki ON5ZO
Gentlemen, please your advice.
If I were to convert my working resonant 80m vertical
into a 80/160m
antenna, I assume I have two basic options according to
There are many options. They are reduced by embraced assumptions or a
requirement of only direct 50 ohm coax feed.

If one makes the concession that there may be a miscellaneous Z to match on
either or both bands, and is willing to construct a matching device, quite a
number of possibilities emerge. While many have the space and mechanical
circumstances to erect one of several textbook antennas in current favor,
IMHO most folks have constraining mechanical circumstances that prevent any
easy use of the currently favored designs.

I saw one installation that had a 80m vertical wire which was supported by
an insulator well off-center on a rope between two decently tall trees.
The feed point directly below was dictated by an out-building and the wire
rose nearly straight up. The radial mix was necessarily eclectic
and shortish, dictated by fences, house, patio, alley way, etc. The problem
was to add 160 to the only possible low band wire with any height on the
property.

My suggestion was to convert the portions of the rope clear of the trees to
wire. One side being well longer than the other, it was not "pure" and
(gasp) would have some degree of horizontal polarized radiation. It also
would present non-standard feed Z's on both bands and require matching.

Once the commitment was made to match whatever impedance presented at the
base on 160 and 80 and switch matching devices, the remaining problem was to
measure the eclectic Z on both band and build a match. The necessary
match components were read off the menu of a K2, having satisfactorily
matched both Z's with its auto-tuner. A pair of iron-powder toroids wound to
value, a pair of transmitting caps, and a couple of relays in a weatherproof
box did it.

The presentation of match components after autotune can now be done with a
K3 as well.

A miscellaneous wire solution that is actually possible at a given site can
be modeled in advance to avoid extreme Z's for match, and if series ground
loss can be minimized, results will be good. A good design on 160 consists
of two considerations with everything else in 12th or 13th place: the least
resistive ground/counterpoise possible and enough effective length to raise
the feed point impedance to minimize whatever practically unavoidable loss
remains in the ground/counterpoise system.

The end result was that he had a passable (R component of feed Z greater
than series ground resistance) 160 antenna that got him on top band, without
being severely narrow, an 80 meter antenna that clearly worked for DX *and*
USA, and was less visible than before.

Purity of design is highly over-rated on 80 and 160 and does not trump being
on both bands.

Stations on the receiving end cannot tell that an antenna is or is not all
vertical. Miscellaneous polarization doesn't show up pink rather than green
on anyone's receiver.

73, Guy.
Art
2009-10-07 01:45:28 UTC
Permalink
Somehow I missed the ON5ZO post so replying to K2AV's reply:

I am using just such an antenna. I have a full size 80 ground plane
currently with 18 quarter wave 80M radials attached 15 ft from ground.
Wanting to use this antenna on 160 I looked at solutions in EZNEC. It
happens that if I added a pair of horizontal or sloping wires near the
top of the GP I could reduce the high Z 160M feed point to something my
transmitters could live with. It also turned out one wire would disrupt
the circular nature of the antenna pattern, but two would not if the two
could be relatively short.

So I added a pair of sloping wires whose length was roughly decided by
EZNEC with a little tuning. I won't quote exact length here because each
installation will be different but mine are on the order 25 ft and slope
at 35 or so degrees. The wires are attached about 20 feet down from the
top of the GP, this height chosen because that is where tower stops and
aluminum pipe top section begins, so it was easy to attach there.

The two wires are fed through traps tuned to 80M so that they are
isolated on 80M but connected on 160M. I made the traps from toroidal
coils resonated with about 30 pF RG213 (about one foot of coax). I had
in mind relays but N6ND suggested traps which saved me lots of hardware,
thanks Rick!

This antenna is extremely effective on both bands. On 160 the match can
be varied with the horizontal wires. I chose horizontal wire lengths
that the active antenna coupler can live with so as to minimize pattern
distortion while delivering the power.

73 Art
Post by Guy Olinger K2AV
Post by Franki ON5ZO
Gentlemen, please your advice.
If I were to convert my working resonant 80m vertical
into a 80/160m
antenna, I assume I have two basic options according to
There are many options. They are reduced by embraced assumptions or a
requirement of only direct 50 ohm coax feed.
If one makes the concession that there may be a miscellaneous Z to match on
either or both bands, and is willing to construct a matching device, quite a
number of possibilities emerge. While many have the space and mechanical
circumstances to erect one of several textbook antennas in current favor,
IMHO most folks have constraining mechanical circumstances that prevent any
easy use of the currently favored designs.
I saw one installation that had a 80m vertical wire which was supported by
an insulator well off-center on a rope between two decently tall trees.
The feed point directly below was dictated by an out-building and the wire
rose nearly straight up. The radial mix was necessarily eclectic
and shortish, dictated by fences, house, patio, alley way, etc. The problem
was to add 160 to the only possible low band wire with any height on the
property.
My suggestion was to convert the portions of the rope clear of the trees to
wire. One side being well longer than the other, it was not "pure" and
(gasp) would have some degree of horizontal polarized radiation. It also
would present non-standard feed Z's on both bands and require matching.
Once the commitment was made to match whatever impedance presented at the
base on 160 and 80 and switch matching devices, the remaining problem was to
measure the eclectic Z on both band and build a match. The necessary
match components were read off the menu of a K2, having satisfactorily
matched both Z's with its auto-tuner. A pair of iron-powder toroids wound to
value, a pair of transmitting caps, and a couple of relays in a weatherproof
box did it.
The presentation of match components after autotune can now be done with a
K3 as well.
A miscellaneous wire solution that is actually possible at a given site can
be modeled in advance to avoid extreme Z's for match, and if series ground
loss can be minimized, results will be good. A good design on 160 consists
of two considerations with everything else in 12th or 13th place: the least
resistive ground/counterpoise possible and enough effective length to raise
the feed point impedance to minimize whatever practically unavoidable loss
remains in the ground/counterpoise system.
The end result was that he had a passable (R component of feed Z greater
than series ground resistance) 160 antenna that got him on top band, without
being severely narrow, an 80 meter antenna that clearly worked for DX *and*
USA, and was less visible than before.
Purity of design is highly over-rated on 80 and 160 and does not trump being
on both bands.
Stations on the receiving end cannot tell that an antenna is or is not all
vertical. Miscellaneous polarization doesn't show up pink rather than green
on anyone's receiver.
73, Guy.
_______________________________________________
Topband mailing list
Topband at contesting.com
http://lists.contesting.com/mailman/listinfo/topband
K4SAV
2009-10-05 15:44:11 UTC
Permalink
There are at least three problems associated with using a 1/8 wavelength
vertical on 160 meters. Those are feedpoint impedance, bandwidth, and
coil dissipation.

To give you an example, for a 20 meter base loaded vertical with ground
loss of 8 ohms, and assuming you build a high Q coil with Air Dux type
construction, the coil should have a low frequency inductance of about
50 uH, a distributed capacitance of about 4 pf, and a loss resistance of
about 1.5 ohms on 160 meters. Putting that data into EZNEC, yields a
resonant frequency of 1.83 MHz, a feedpoint impedance of 17 ohms, and a
2 to 1 SWR bandwidth of 28 kHz, and for 1500 watts continuous input, the
coil dissipation is 137 watts. Total power lost in the coil plus the
ground is 3.5 dB. Radiation resistance is about 7 ohms.

So you need another element in the matching network to transform the 17
ohms to 50 ohms, and the 28 kHz bandwidth may be too narrow for you so
you may need a solution to that, and the coil dissipation is very high,
so if you run high power you need a way to get the heat out of the
coil. I don't think it will be possible to wind a much higher Q coil,
and even if you could do that, the bandwidth will get even narrower.

There is an additional problem if you do any switching in the matching
network, and that is voltage across the coil. For 1500 watts it is
about 5500 volts RMS (7800 volts peak), so you need vacuum relays and a
way to keep every thing dry.

Since the voltage on the coil is so large and has to be kept dry any
insulation you put around the coil will likely add some stray
capacitance around the coil. This will increase the circulating current
in the coil and therefore increase the coil dissipation. For the base
loaded example above each additional 1 pf across the coil increases the
coil dissipation by 1.8 watts. From this information you can also see
why using a poor coil form will increase coil dissipation.

A solution using a loading coil further up the antenna is not easy
either. That coil will have to be higher inductance. It will be
larger, its loss resistance will be higher even though the coil
dissipation may not be a lot different, its distributed capacitance will
be higher, and the voltage across it will be much higher. A trap will
have similar problems.

So you can see the problems get very difficult if the antenna is very
short. It is always better to increase the radiation resistance of the
antenna, usually by top loading.

Jerry, K4SAV
Loading...